Desensitisation and counter conditioning

Author: Bella (proHOUND Co-Founder)

This blog is not a ‘how-to’. You should NOT attempt to desensitise (or counter-condition) your dog to a stimulus without the help of a reputable professional. This blog is merely an interesting overview of the theory.

Right, that’s the health & safety part over!!

 

Let’s jump in with the big question:

What is the difference between counter-conditioning and desensitisation? 

 

Counter-conditioning is more intentional. You are actively trying to change the dog’s association to a stimulus, possibly by pairing it with something the dog likes. 

Desensitisation is, generally speaking, passively exposing the dog to a stimulus, normally starting at a very low intensity. 

Both techniques are normally used together. You could say a dog has been desensitised to a stimulus if the stimulus has ‘accidentally’ caused a neutral response (rather than a fearful or excited response); counter-conditioning is normally more planned and detailed. 

 

We are aiming to change the emotional state (desensitisation) AND the behavioural response (counter-conditioning). 

Let’s now be even geekier…

 

First of all, it’s important to take things very slowly. Do not rush. Increase their threshold gradually – don’t forget that we are trying to reduce stress in our dogs and improve mental wellbeing! 
Yes, some stress in the learning process is inevitable and helpful, but learning should be as fun as possible and boost your dog’s confidence. 

Exposing a puppy to various stimuli is an essential part of puppy socialisation, but it is possible to achieve a neutral response to stimuli an adult dog too. 

 

Unfortunately, I can’t tell you how to desensitise or c-c your dog to a stimulus because each dog is so different but I can provide some VERY GENERAL guidance: 

 

• Reward desirable behaviour 
• Start at a distance; aim to be gradually closer over time
• Where suitable, teach an alternative & incompatible behaviour 
• Take a literal and metaphorical step back if threshold is reached in an unhealthy way/arousal is too high
• Allow your dog to relax & recover after sessions
• Provide lots of fulfilment overall so your dog’s needs are met and they have a chance to unwind
• Do not attempt to train if you are not emotionally clear-headed yourself! You also need to be emotionally neutral. Do not tighten that lead for no reason or panic! Calmmmmmmm. 
• Can you cue relaxation? I know you can’t cue a relaxed state of mind as such but you can cue a behaviour such as Place which should lead to switching off if taught correctly & is generalised. 
• Build that engagement – your dog needs to know you will support them in every way. 
• Try to prevent/correct undesirable behaviour if suitable. 
• The new, desired alternative & incompatible behaviour you teach will eventually become habit, so the stimulus that was previously a trigger for an undesirable emotional state/behavioural response becomes a cue for neutrality! 

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